Travel Notes. To the mountains, sirs, to the mountains...
This is how the words of a well-known Chekhov's heroine: "Everyone head to the garden!" can be interpreted. The Christmas holidays have passed indeed. The Christmas tree tinsel lost its lustre. The workaday routine has begun. The only thing which can tear this cheerless alteration of days is a weekend in the mountains. It is winter outside, the fact that people of the Northern hemisphere to which we belong associate with cold, snow, smell of oranges and, of course, skis and snowboarding. If this is so, than we are going to the place where the Chimgan Mountains are "glaring".
We have already taken a ride with you on the summer road along the Charvak-Chimgan ring towards Beldersay in the first issue of the magazine (in December 2003). Now I am offering not to lose precious time and to rush straight to the main mountain-skiing resort of the sunny Uzbekistan - to the foot of Bolshoy Chimgan Mountain. I am ready to share with you the knowledge of some peculiarities of mountain-skiing activity in our country.
I want to apologize in advance for the shabby elevators - seats and hoops. Yes, this isn't Europe but let's be grateful to the administrations of ski routes for the fact that they could prepare the necessary equipment by their own force, without any support from the outside. We will talk about equipment later, but now let's concentrate on the main difficulties which lie in wait for our guests that decided to got out to the mountains for the weekend.
The main test is the road. You will speed along the new route to Gazalkent without problems. Even after an abundant snowfall the road services will clear the paving already on the next day. The situation is different from Gazalkent on the mountain area. Snow does not melt and, packed in alteration with ice, it starts to present serious problems for drivers. Be prepared for traffic jams. As everybody knows, it is problematic to make a move up the road on ice, especially on the cars with forward control. Therefore, if there is a choice of cars, it is more preferable to drive out on all-wheel drive jeeps, next on the list is rear wheel drive cars and finally cars with forward control. The rubber should be for winter. To be on the safe side it would be better to get steel ropes and a chain for the tires. Include a tow-line and a snow shovel in the set. I will only be very happy if you will not have to use all of his. However, if you are pushed to the wall and there is nothing close at hand, then you will remember this article.
Now let's decide where to go. If you are a poor skier and have children, then, probably, it is better to go to Chimgan. There are many people and even more snow here. Gentle slopes give a wonderful opportunity to learn skiing. There is also a private rent of skis, snowboards, sledges, etc. here. The coaches will spend time with you till your utter exhaustion only for US$5. Do not rush when choosing a coach - the way you will ski tomorrow directly depends on his professionalism. Approach the specialists of the cable-seat way or hoop - they will recommend. I recommend you to turn directly to Grigoriy Trebesovski (telephone: 154-31-61). By the way, the cable-way and rope-tow invite those who already stand well on skis and feel confident. The length of the chair lift is 800 m, cost of a lift is US$1.5 per time. A shorter hoop - 650m and the cost of the lift is US$0.5. A good skier makes 30 descents a day. So count how much it will cost. Therefore, I offer you to take a subscription - it is more economical this way. You will need the saved money in case you did not bring any foodstuffs and rely on the local cuisine. Chimgan is the ideal place for a winter party, this is why one can find everything for relaxation here - three decent cafes, discos flash out in three places simultaneously in the evening. As always, one can buy necessities in the hawker's stands - beer, cigarettes, condoms. The rent of horses enjoys demand here as well. If you came to stay overnight, then the tourist complex "Chimgan-Oromgohi" offers hotel rooms at the price of US$10 or more per person per day. The complex consists of cottages that are more expensive and more comfortable. In any case, when planning your trip, reserve the lodging in advance.
The interest of private investors to the winter kinds of activities grows, and so recently many private mini-hotels opened their doors for tourists. One of them - "Sky Village" is located on the way to the village (on the left side of the road) only 1.5km from the tourcomplex. The prices in "Sky Village" are acceptable, conditions - comfortable.
Another private hotel "Snejniy bars" (Snow leopard) is located in front of the tourcomplex, if driving along the road from Beldersay tract. The hotel opened recently and the owners tried to guarantee European comfort and service. (Telephone for information: 185-92-77). On the whole, one can address Vladimir Yastrebov, director of the complex, a nice person and hospitable host, with all the questions on winter rest. Thanks to his efforts the life in Chimgan did not go out. It cannot go out because this year, by instructions of the mayor of Tashkent city, electric lighting lines were rigged up here. Taking this opportunity, I would like to thank on behalf of the magazine and its readers the mayor of Tashkent city and hope that the developing of Chimgan will not end here.
Further I will talk about the sunny Beldersay but now I will share a few personal impressions about the "Pyramids". They are located on the beach of "Charvak". I would call resting in this complex extreme. Administration takes little care of the clients. This is evidenced by total lack of organized leisure. Everything you will be offered is table tennis and a sauna. Admit that this is too little for the modern level. One more inconvenience is the lack of transport communication Charvak-Chimgan and rent of mountain-skiing inventory. I would place the bad work of staff of the complex on creating an atmosphere of comfort and relaxation among other inconveniences of this place. Even the meals take place without music, but in the joyless accompaniment of spoons and forks. The picture is completed by dismal moans of the wind, which is very strong in these localities in winter.
Enough of the sad, let's turn to the bright pages of travel notes. The next chapter is "BELDERSAY". If Chimgan is matchless in the nomination "The best for amateurs", then Beldersay is a leader in the nomination "The best for professionals". There is a completely different energy and soul in here.
The most fashionable hotel of the mountain Uzbekistan is in here. The longest cable-chair way in Asia (extension - 3.5km) is in here. There is a lot of sky and a lot of snow in here. The kingdom of Lady Snowstorm is here. And, exactly like in the story by the Grimm brothers (German taletellers), Lady Snowstorm will generously gift good people with impressions in here. People return here again and again, as if pulled by a magnet.
The cable-chair way works everyday. Very often, having sat on the lower station in fog, we get off to the blinding sunlight in the upper station. The clouds are beneath us. The emotions that fill each person who climbed here can be compared to the delight of a first airplane flight. The skiers and snowboarders ride on the Kumbel Mountain, which is surrounded by mountains from every quarter. Of late the Kumbel peak has become a paradise for the paraplane lovers. These people are unusual, romantic and impulsive, real "sky bikers". If you are lucky, you will see the blue sky coloured in bright canopies. The flights on Kumbel will become more intense by summer when there will be good upstream of air. However, practice and training flights do take place in winter here.
There is a place in Beldersay tract where one can stay for a long time. This is "Beldersay" Hotel and "Beldersay Oromgohi" recreation zone. Living in a double room of a hotel will cost US$90 per day, excluding the meals. There are 2-room suites as well as VIP-apartments for exacting clients. Living in cottages will cost cheaper - one house for 4 persons will cost US$60 per day for the clients. Meals are complex - US$16 per day per person. There is a wide spectrum of additional services. You will find a disco, covered swimming pool and a sauna here. The hotel is convenient for conducting conferences and seminars. The small session-room is meant for 30 - 40 persons (Telephone for information: 176-38-26, 132-17-90).
The "Beldersay Oromgohi" recreation zone is situated nearby. The cottages are meant for 4 - 6 persons, the cost of living in them is US$60 per day, but there will be no meals and organization of leisure in here. The client is left on his own. One can also stay in the cottages of the weather station. The peculiarities of these houses are home-like coziness, good nutrition, availability of an active fireplace and sauna. (Telephone for information: 139-97-17, 96-33-36, 115-28-30).
I think that you have received the basic information and the interest to mountain peaks appeared. The scintilla remains - to call, specify, start the jeep, gather friends and leave on the coming Sunday. Having been in captivity of our mountains, you will return again. This I promise you.
See you on the ski slope!
Yours sincerely,
Vlad Orlov
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